Let’s be honest. The world of skincare can feel like a minefield, especially when you have melanin-rich skin and the risk of irritation, dark spots, and scarring are real. For Black women, chemical exfoliants like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs often come with a healthy dose of skepticism. And honestly? That hesitation makes perfect sense.
“There is a deep mistrust in the beauty and medical industries due to a lack of inclusion in education around darker skin types,” says Dr. Michelle Henry, MD, FAAD, founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan. “Many women have been literally burned by products that weren’t designed with their skin in mind.” Whether it’s a too-harsh peel gone wrong or advice that failed to factor in the nuances of melanin-rich skin, skin trauma is too often a reality for us.
To break down fact from fiction, we called on a panel of top dermatologists who specialize in treating skin of color. Dr. Michelle Henry, Dr. Corey L. Hartman, Dr. Kaveri Karhade, Dr. Raina Bembry, and Dr. Alexis Stephens each offer their candid expertise below. Read on to feel more empowered when it comes to exfoliating acids.
First Things First: What do acids actually do?
Acids are a form of a chemical exfoliant to remove dead skin cells, smooth texture, unclog pores, and fade hyperpigmentation. Unlike physical scrubs—which can be abrasive and cause microtears in Black skin—acids allow for a controlled, deeper exfoliation with less risk of mechanical trauma.
Different types of acids serve different needs. AHAs, such as glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid, exfoliate the skin’s surface and help improve texture and discoloration. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) can be salicylic acid, which is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into the pores to help clear congestion and treat acne. On the other hand, PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids, have a larger molecular structure, making them the gentlest exfoliants. They also provide extra hydration, making them ideal for individuals with sensitive skin.
Why the Fear Is Real—And Why That Matters
Melanin-rich skin is naturally more reactive to inflammation. As Dr. Henry explains, the pigment-producing cells—called melanocytes—are more active in Black skin and can overproduce melanin when triggered by even minimal irritation. This often leads to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which can last far longer than redness or flaking in lighter skin tones.
Dr. Hartman adds that this reactivity is one of the main reasons why many Black women avoid acids altogether. “They’ve seen what can go wrong,” he says. “Acids that cause scarring, dark spots that don’t fade, and skin sensitivity that throws everything off.” But, he stresses, avoiding chemical exfoliants completely also means missing out on the very benefits that can help address those same concerns.
Dr. Karhade emphasizes that acids aren’t inherently unsafe. It’s more so about how they’re used. “With proper guidance and the right formulation, acids can be incredibly effective for Black skin,” she says.
Which acids work best for Black skin?
If you’re just stepping into the exfoliating acid game, lactic acid and mandelic acid exfoliate and hydrate your skin. And because their molecules are large, they don’t dive too deep, meaning less irritation and more glow with none of the drama.
PHAs are a standalone choice. Due to their slow absorption and hydrating properties, PHAs provide mild exfoliation without compromising the skin barrier, making them especially beneficial for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
If you’re battling acne or oiliness, salicylic acid, a BHA, gets top marks. It dives deep into pores to break up buildup, regulate oil, and reduce inflammation, all while being gentle enough for melanin-rich skin.
The Acids You Need to Be Careful With
Glycolic acid is one of the most effective and widely used exfoliants, but also one of the most aggressive. Dr. Henry warns that while it can be beneficial, it’s important to avoid high concentrations—especially the 20 to 30 percent options often sold online without regulation. “At those strengths, you’re essentially doing a chemical peel at home,” she says. “That’s risky for any skin, but especially for darker complexions.”
Instead, she recommends starting with glycolic acid formulas at no more than five percent, and only increasing strength once your skin shows signs of tolerance.
Dermatologists across the board agree that layering multiple acids, using physical scrubs alongside chemical exfoliants, or combining acids with retinoids can increase the likelihood of irritation. Dr. Bembry and Dr. Stephens both advise against using these combinations unless you’re under the supervision of a professional.
How to Tell When You’re Over-Exfoliating
If your skin starts feeling tight, burning, or stinging after the first application—or if you notice more flaking, dark spots, or breakouts—take a step back. Dr. Karhade notes that in melanin-rich skin, overexfoliation often appears not as redness, but as dark patches that weren’t there before.
Over-exfoliated skin can also become overly sensitive to products you previously used without issue. This barrier breakdown increases your risk of PIH even further. “If your glow starts looking dull, blotchy, or feels uncomfortable, it’s time to pause,” says Dr. Stephens.
Building a Routine That Works with Your Skin, Not Against It
A successful acid routine begins with frequency and formulation. All of our experts recommend starting slow—just once or twice a week—and gradually building up use as your skin adjusts. Always apply acids on clean skin, and immediately follow with a hydrating serum or moisturizer. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, peptides, and panthenol to repair the skin barrier and add moisture.
And don’t forget sunscreen. All of our experts emphasize this point: daily broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 is a must. Acids increase sun sensitivity, and any unprotected exposure can undo your progress—or worse, worsen hyperpigmentation.
So, whether you’re just starting your exfoliation journey or refining a routine, remember: glowing skin begins with informed choices. Take your time. Patch test. Hydrate. Protect. And always, always wear your sunscreen.